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Mount the Fuse Panel
The first thing you need to do is mount the fuse panel. Mount it somewhere fairly protected. The fuse panel comes with some short stainless sheet metal screws, but you might want to get some long thin screws with nuts if you're mounting onto something like thick steel. At the same time, and before actually mounting, lay out the Relay Kit so you'll have a better idea of how it will all fit together. Some people strap or velcro the fuse panel in place.
Fuse Panel Terminals
Note: If you did not want the ring terminals installed onto the main leads for the fuse panel's input posts, it was probably because you were uncertain of the main lead length needed. Therefore with the fuse panel now installed, lay out the relay and wiring in position and trim the main leads to length, allowing a bit of extra so the wires won't be too tight.
You will now have to install the terminals onto the main leads before actually mounting the relay and wiring. Go here to see how the terminals are crimped and soldered onto the wires. First though, lay out the wires and snip them to length Then, after the terminals are installed come back here and install the relay and wiring.
If you bought the Kit with the terminals pre-installed, lay out the wiring and ensure the terminals fit with the wiring routed as planned. If you want to shorten the main leads, you can cut the wires and install new terminals yourself. Extra terminals are included with each fuse panel.
Install Main Fuse Panel Leads
Install the fuse panel leads' ring terminals onto the fuse panel's input terminal studs with the flat side on the bottom and put the self locking nuts included onto the posts and tighten them up snugly. Make sure you have the positive and negative leads on the proper input posts. The fuse panels are marked near the posts for proper polarity. The AP-1 has two input posts, while the AP-2 has three.
Mount the Relay
These Kits are designed with the relay near the battery. The relay should be solidly mounted or zip tied where it won't be bouncing around or rubbing on anything. There should be no strain on it's wires.
Switching Lead
There is one long thin blue lead with a Posi-Tap. This lead must connect to an ignition switched hot lead. First decide which wire you will tap for ignition switched power. You can connect the wire in any way you want, but the Posi-Tap supplied makes it easy to tap power without damaging the wire.
Test that your ignition switched wire has power when the bike is turned on, and no power when the bike is turned off. Then, to connect with the Posi-Tap, first remove the Posi-Tap from the blue wire. Install the Posi-Tap onto the ignition switched wire to be tapped, then reinstall onto the Kit's blue wire.
See my Posi-Tap install webpage for how to install the Posi-Tap.
If you cut a zip-tie to remove any wire sheathing, be careful not to nip any wires and replace the zip-tie with another one to help keep the wires from getting flexed and breaking.
Your bike has many hot wires which are ignition switched, but the tail light wire or the parking light wire are usually easy choices. You can shorten or lengthen the switching wire if necessary. This wire will carry very low current but the hot wire must still be protected from shorting to ground.
CANBus Bikes: There is an ACC plug at the front of the bike near the top of the steering stem, which can be used to tap 12V switched power. See here for more info about this. The parking light wire though may be a better choice. Some have tapped the diagnostic plug at the rear under the seat with good results, at least on R12GS models.
Battery Preparation
Remove all negative leads from your battery and make sure they won't touch the battery terminal during installation. Remove the positive leads now, also make sure they won't touch the battery terminal. Always remove battery terminals in this order, and reinstall in reverse.
Battery Leads
Route the main leads from the relay to the battery and connect them to the battery. Reconnect the positive leads first with the Kit's battery POS terminal on top of the bike's existing POS terminals. Then reconnect the negative leads with the Kit's battery NEG lead on top of the bike's existing NEG terminals. Do not insert the Kit's main fuse yet.
Finishing Touches
Zip tie all wires carefully where they won't be pinched, rubbed, or broken. Double check everything then install a 30A fuse in the main fuseholder. Test that the fuse panel has power. The relay and fuse panel should be activated when you turn on your ignition switch. For the AP-2. the three unswitched circuits should be live at all times. Test everything now before putting your bike back together and running your output circuits.
Do not leave your bike's ignition switch on for a long time while testing. And always turn it off immediately after testing is finished.
Load Circuits
Now you will have to install your load circuits. Make sure that hot wires are connected on the hot side of the AP-1 and ground wires are connected on the ground side. The side closest to the fuses is the hot side but both sides are marked. Simply unscrew one lug screw and carefully insert a wire, then tighten the lug screw up snugly. Repeat for all wires until all your circuits are complete. Zip tie and route all wires carefully and neatly and test each circuit as you add it.
Notes
Note: A VOM (digital multi meter) will be very handy for testing but any test light will also do. You might need your bike's wiring diagram if you need to find an ignition switched wire. Some people have fabricated mounting plates for their fusebox. Location should be decided before you order a Kit. Find out where other owners of your model bike have installed fuseboxes. Most makes and models have online groups where you can find information and ask questions.
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