Regulator/Rectifier Kit Extras Page

Identifying the Stock Alternator Connector (Part B) on Your Bike:

These photos should help you ID the type of connector now on your bike. If you have any doubt please send me a photo of what your bike has and I’ll try and provide the mate to it on your Part B Kit above. Most bikes use one of the two connectors below.

Sumitomo 3P250-L Connector:


Yazaki 3P250-CNA Connector:


If your bike has a different type, check my Connectors Pages to ID it.

If you are reusing the bike half of your old connector, make sure its terminals are not corroded. Replace with the new ones if you can’t clean up the old ones like new. These connections are often the reason for an R/R unit burning out in the first place.

Here’s what you’re trying to avoid!

5 pos r-r-burnt burnt connector

Yes the most common cause of R/R failure is poor alternator connections causing heat and damage.

Since you really should be replacing the terminals on your stock connector, replacing with the sealed Metri-Pack connector is not that much more difficult and I highly recommend it.

Extra unsealed connectors and terminals are available here.

Get a waterproof fuseholder and fuses here.

Buy Metri-Pack connectors, terminals and seals here.

Other Mosfet R/R Units:

I installed an FH008, also a Mosfet type designed for bikes with alternators up to 360 watts. Mine is a used unit from a late model  Honda CB600RR, purchased on EBay for $30. I put it on my 1988 Africa Twin with excellent results.

Stock R/R Units:

Most bikes use unsealed type connectors and these are the biggest cause of problems later, due to corrosion causing arcing and eventual meltdown and loss of current flow.

Therefore if your R/R unit is still working, you can upgrade its wiring using the FH008 R/R Kit. This Kit gives you everything you need to replace both connectors with sealed types and go direct to battery.

The 30A stock fuseholders used on many bikes can become a problem. This Kit will also avoid any future problems with this unit.